Ingrid - How to Close a Gaping Back Keyhole

How to Fix a Gaping Keyhole(1).jpg

Ingrid has a lovely deep keyhole opening. More than deep enough for you to pull over your head. We love the easy silhouette and that we don’t have to find a zip in the correct length or colour. Definitely makes for easier sewing.


Some of our tester group fed back that the back neck opening would gap a little when worn. This can be a common problem with keyholes. It’s easy to stretch when making and the opening doesn’t offer any support for the back neck.


After our pattern test we decided to amend the pattern and close the keyhole a little before we launched. If we were altering this issue in industry for a garment made in 1 fabric type this would have been an easy amendment, but because we know you’ll all be making your Ingrid’s in different fabrics with very different properties we had to alter the minimum amount to make sure the balance on the pattern wasn’t shifted out when making in more rigid/crisp fabrics.

This is a simple alteration and involves taking a small wedge out of the centre back keyhole into nothing at the armhole, then filling the back in. We took as much as we could from the pattern to keep it versatile across many clothes however, you may find that you still need to remove a little. We’ve detailed some tips below to help you with the best keyhole finishes.


Tips for Getting your Keyhole Just Right

  1. Make sure you stay stitch or stay tape your keyhole opening before you start sewing. Even if you usually skip this step.

  2. Do you usually have to make adjustments on your patterns on the back or around your shoulders? ie: a rounded back or rounded shoulder adjustment. Make sure you do a toile as you may find the gapping more pronounced.

  3. Different fabrics will react differently so you may find you need to take out more on some fabrics than others.

We understand that not everyone is team toile so, if you made up your Ingrid without toiling and find that it’s gapping there are a couple of things you can do to reduce the issue.

  1. Steam, steam, steam. If you’re fabric can handle it give it a really good steam and try shrink the opening back down.

  2. Reduce the length of your keyhole opening a little. Try your Ingrid on and see and see how high you can raise the keyhole end by and still get it over your head. Then just close the back neck opening as much as you need to.

  3. Have you stretched the neckline too? Try moving your button over a little so there’s more of a wrap.

  4. Still not working? Change your fastening. Add an extra couple of loops down the keyhole or change to a short invisible zip into the centre back. Take extra care not to stretch the back opening when you’re unpicking the back facing.


Making Your Pattern Alterations

It is a really quick and simple alteration to close the keyhole. Follow the steps below for a crisp flat finish.

Make a toile in a fabric with a similar quality to your end fabric. Make sure you stay stitch the neck and back opening before you start sewing to eliminate any stretching.

Make a toile in a fabric with a similar quality to your end fabric. Make sure you stay stitch the neck and back opening before you start sewing to eliminate any stretching.

 
You may need someone to help you with the next step. Pin out the excess fabric from the back opening into 0 in the armhole until your keyhole opening is lying nice and flat.Lift your arms, move your elbows back and forward, check in a mirror that you’re happy you’ve removed the correct amount.

You may need someone to help you with the next step. Pin out the excess fabric from the back opening into 0 in the armhole until your keyhole opening is lying nice and flat.

Lift your arms, move your elbows back and forward, check in a mirror that you’re happy you’ve removed the correct amount.

 
Cut out your pattern pieces ready to make your pattern amendments..

Cut out your pattern pieces ready to make your pattern amendments..

 
Draw in your 1cm seam allowance at the back armhole. Following your toile mirror what you’ve taken of your pattern as drawn in red.

Draw in your 1cm seam allowance at the back armhole.

Following your toile mirror what you’ve taken of your pattern as drawn in red.

 
Cut along one line and close the wedge, being careful not to overlap or open the measurement at the armhole. This will ensure your sleeve still fits in perfectly later.

Cut along one line and close the wedge, being careful not to overlap or open the measurement at the armhole. This will ensure your sleeve still fits in perfectly later.

 
Stick a piece of scrap paper down the c/back

Stick a piece of scrap paper underneath the centre back.

 
Using a long ruler blend your centre back.

Using a long ruler blend your centre back.

 
Cut and notch your pattern pieces. You can repeat these steps on the back neck facing. However, I find it quicker to make a new back neck facing pattern piece.On a scrap of paper draw around the shoulder, back neck and centre back.

Cut and notch your pattern pieces.

You can repeat these steps on the back neck facing. However, I find it quicker to make a new back neck facing pattern piece.

On a scrap of paper draw around the shoulder, back neck and centre back.

 
Using your original back neck facing mark in the shoulder length - this is to ensure it still matches the front facing

Using your original back neck facing mark in the shoulder length - this is to ensure it still matches the front facing

 
Line up the drill point, keyhole notch and centre back and draw around the lower facing and blend up to the shoulder

Line up the drill point, keyhole notch and centre back and draw around the lower facing and blend up to the shoulder

 
Cut out your new facing and place on your back panel to make sure it matches perfectly.

Cut out your new facing and place on your back panel to make sure it matches perfectly.

 
 

We hope you found these fitting and make tips easy to follow. As always if you have any questions as you sew get in touch. Susan x

Susan Howells