Ingrid Sew Along - Final Day

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It’s the final day of Ingrids sew-along, lets get started:

Insert Sleeves

If you are sewing view B, follow the instruction booklet to ease in the sleeve

For view A and C there is no ease so we can move on to sewing the underarm seam straight away.

Right sides together, pin the underarm  

1cm (3/8”) from the edge, stitch from the underarm to the hem, then press seam open

Pin underarm

Pin underarm

Stitch seam and press open

Stitch seam and press open

 

Next, insert your sleeve into the bodice, right sides together

Align the bodice side seam to the sleeve underarm and pin.  Then match and pin at each notch.  Now, work around the armhole pinning to close the gaps between notches

Insert the sleeve into the bodice

Insert the sleeve into the bodice

Pin sleeve in place around the armhole

Pin sleeve in place around the armhole

 

1cm (3/8”) from the edge, starting at the underarm, stitch around the armhole

Zigzag or overlook the seam together

Stitch around armhole

Stitch around armhole

Overlock the edges together

Overlock the edges together

Press seam allowance into the sleeve head (using your tailor’s ham to help here)

Repeat for the second sleeve

 

 

Join Facing Panels

Right sides together place the back facings on top of each other and pin

With a 1cm (3/8”) seam allowance sew the base of the facings together, starting at the drill hole, down to the hem

Right sides together pin the shoulder seams of the front and back facings

With a 1cm (3/8”) seam allowance sew the shoulder seams together

Stitch base of facing from notch down

Attach shoulders of facings

Attach shoulders of facings

Press seams open

 

Attach Facings to Neck Edge

Right sides together, place the facing on top of the neck edge.

With a 6mm (1/4”) seam allowance, starting at the centre back opening, sew around the neck edge

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Snip into the seam allowance around the neck curve, being careful not to snip too close to the seam

Fold the seam allowances under the facing side of the seam. Starting approx. 2.5cm (1”) from the centre back understitch the neck facing

Snip into the curves of the neck edge

Snip into the curves of the neck edge

Understitch seam allowance to the facing

Understitch seam allowance to the facing

Press

Attach Button Loop and Sew Keyhole Facing

I am using a stretch elastic loop for this make. If you would like to sew your rouleaux loop, you can use the pattern piece provided and follow the instructions in our booklet.

 

Fold your button loop in half lengthways

Pin the loop to the back bodice, at the top of the keyhole opening (fold the facing back to keep it out the of way)

 

Position the loop flush with the facing seam at the top edge

Stitch to secure the loop, within the seam allowance

Pin loop to the bodice just below the seam

Pin loop to the bodice just below the seam

Stitch to secure the loop (within the seam allowance )

Stitch to secure the loop (within the seam allowance )

 

Check the loop size with your button before moving on

 

Lay the keyhole facing back down, right sides together, sandwiching the loop between the two layers.  Pin in place

With a 1cm (3/8”) seam allowance sew the keyhole starting at the neck edge down to the drill hole

Pin vertical edges together for sewing

Pin vertical edges together for sewing

Sew from neck down to the drill marker

Sew from neck down to the drill marker

Repeat for the opposite side of the keyhole

 

Snip the seam allowance at the centre back top corners and base of the keyhole

Starting as close as you can to the top, understitch keyhole

Snip corners before turning through

Snip corners before turning through

Understitched and pressed neck opening

Understitched and pressed neck opening

Press neck edges and keyhole opening, making sure the seams are concealed on the inside

Secure the facing to the bodice by ‘stitching in the ditch’, at the shoulder seams and base of facing

Pin the facing to the bodice

Pin the facing to the bodice

Stitch through the seam line to secure (’stitch in the ditch’)

Stitch through the seam line to secure (’stitch in the ditch’)

If needed you can secure the facing at the centre front seam too

Securely stitch your button to the top of the back keyhole opening

Hem Sleeves

Turn hem up 1cm (3/8”) and press all the way around

Turn up a further 1cm (3/8”) and press all the way around enclosing the raw edge

Pin hem into position, then edge stitch at the hem fold line

Press sleeve hem up

Press sleeve hem up

Double turn and pin

Double turn and pin

Leave a gap at the underarm seam (to insert the cuff elastic)

Cut your elastic to the lengths given in Ingrids measurement charts

Attach a safety pin to one end of your elastic. Thread the elastic through the hole you left in the waistband using the safety pin to guide it through

Check the elastic is lying flat and not twisted in the channel

Once pulled through, pin the two ends together with a 4cm ( 1 5/8”) overlap and try on to check the elastic length

Feed your elastic through the channel using a safety pin

Feed your elastic through the channel using a safety pin

Overlap elastic and pin together

Overlap elastic and pin together

Stitch the elastic ends closed with a zigzag stitch, or a double row of straight stitch to secure

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Stitch the elastic together

Close channel

Close channel

Close the hole in your hem, being careful not to catch the elastic in the seam

Hem Skirt/Top

Turn hem up 1cm (3/8”) and press, turn hem a further 1cm (3/8”).  Press and pin into place

Double turn and stitch

Double turn and stitch

Edgestitch at the hem fold line to close and press

Final Press and Check

Take some time to give your Ingrid a good press, trimming any loose threads you find

Thank you so much for sewing along with us. Let us know how you got on and share your makes with #hhIngrid on Instagram x

Thanks to Bawn textiles for the gorgeous Organic Cotton Denim used in this sew along x

 
 
Nicola McGrath