Ingrid - Sew Along. Day 2
Welcome back!
Susan (left) and Nic (right) pictured with Victoria during our recent photoshoot. Susan wears view B and Nic View C
Today we are discussng sizing and Fit. Now that you have your pattern, take a look at the sizing charts to start identifying your size.
Ingrid is supplied with patterns for UK size 6 – 24. Bust sizes 79cm to 124cm (31” to 49”) Waist 64cm to 109cm (25 ¼ to 43”) and hip 87cm to 132cm (34 ¼ to 52”)
Our patterns are drafted for a C cup and height 5’5’ to 5’7’
Ingrid has an easy fit, the shoulder seams sit just on the shoulder and the slightly boxy bodice has added shaping through the bust tuck.
If your body measurement falls between sizes on our chart, I would recommend using the bust or waist as your initial guide. Ingrid is not fitted through the hip, so this measurement is not as important when selecting your size for this pattern.
If your bust cup is larger than D you may need to select one size down from our chart and make an FBA. In this instance, a toile or muslin would be recommended.
Pattern and Fit Adjustments
We always suggest making a toile or muslin before cutting your final cloth, especially if this is the first time you are working with our patterns.
Because of the soft gathers in Ingrid’s skirts, there is lots of ease through Ingrids hip, which means you may not need to toile the whole dress to check fit. Making a wearable toile of the top view is a great way to check the fit through the bodice and will use a lot less cloth! When you then move on to make a dress, remember to transfer any pattern adjustments over to the right-hand bodice panel.
Ingrid’s sculptural bust tuck is one of our favourite details of this style. It’s fun to sew, but you may not be used to making adjustments for this type of construction. If you have a full or smaller bust than our block, then you might be used to doing an FBA (full bust adjustment) or an SBA (small bust adjustment) on a darted bodice. The principle for this bust adjustment is the same as you are used to making on a standard side seam dart. But for Ingrid, the adjustment is made from the centre-front rather than at the side seam, you treat the tuck just as you would a dart.
Susan talks you through standard FBA’s and SBA’s here. In this fitting guide, you will also learn how to move the bust point by raising or lowering the tuck.
General fitting
Ingrid was drafted for 5’5 – 5’7’ (165cm - 170cm) You can use the lengthen and shorten guidelines on the pattern to adjust lengths to suit your height.
Susan explains in more detail how to maintain the asymmetric and stepped seams when adjusting lengths in her second fitting guide here.
Grading between sizes on Ingrid is straightforward. We would advise to grade through the side seams and make sure to make the same changes to both right- and left-hand side panels. Avoid grading through the centre front seams.
If you are grading through the waist and hip, you also have the option to increase or reduce the volume of gathers into the skirt rather than adjusting the skirt panel widths.
· Read Susans fitting guide: How to Lengthen or Shorten Bodice Panels here
· Read Susans fitting guide: Ingrid – Bust Tuck Adjustments here
Once you have selected your size and considered any adjustments, make sure to cut out your pattern ready to start prepping and sewing tomorrow.
See you then x